I did call Whirlpool and told them that the new valve they sent was broken and they did send another replacement free overnight. Two days ago, the replacement unit also died. I am so happy that the company replaced it for you. At this point mine lit the main burner and blinked 7 a few times then blinked 1 1 1 1. Maybe it should be Teflon coated if that interaction is suspect? This may help all. Yes. day installed it i had bad problems to lite, i called Co. they asked if a professional installed it, i told tech ive installed over 15 water heaters & never had this type of trouble, he kind of said that since im not a pro-with licence thats why its not lighting, i told him i didnt like this valve sytem & all 15 water with the old school red dial out lasted the 9 yr some worked till 12 years & why would i ever give $400 to install something i could do & i do know what Im doing just that this system not working at all, i got it 3 years & I got one of the lucky ones, the (2nd one)was built 07/20/2015 i got a call Fri 29th,16 my tenant said water heater stopped working & i had showed him how tom lite it in case im not around & it turns off, he tried many times, depress 1 1/2, 2 min, 3 min & nothing, i got a chance to look into it & i had assumed E-Z fix 5 min ill have it & running, wrong spent hour doing everything instructions had, i asked my tennat at what temp he had it on, he said a lil past the letyter (A) when i installed it i had told him never pass (A) i remember a friend who owns several homes (7) & he told me many nitemare stories of the Honeywell Valve status lite (poop)he was dealing with 7 faulty valves had to pay hotel 3-5 days while they ship parts, even then the water heater co. diagnosed problem wrong, he said a couple times they told him it was the thermopile that was causing pilot lite not to stay on, he waited for part, ordered the Valve although it had warranty but it didnt cover the wasted time, days & hotel for his tenants, but he some how found on his own that setting those types pass the letter (A) the water heater will over heat, thats whats going on with me, i checked everything spark good, pilot lights well but doesnt stay on & the status lite doesnt come on at all, its like its dead, so i called Co. tech guy told me oh thats an E-Z one & no brainner its your thermopile well let me tell my tenants 4 adults 3 teenagers of how E-Z theyll have it for 4 days without hot water you certified (DA=dumb ass)i still didnt feel good about that, i called my friend & my friend said ill bet you a $100 its going to be the thermo pile, call m back & have them send you new Valve & get on YouTube & sites to get help, these sites are extremely helpful, you save money, time, days waiting for part & most likely youll get wrong diagnosed, so Im gearing up & ready to get hot water for my tenants, its a rotten dirty shame that so many people have gotten ripped off by honeywell & no law suits for intentionally selling theyre valves to the water heater makers they too are at fault, at least those of us that can tinker with things are able to FIY i feel for the people who have get a licence person to install, then several months later have the valve burn out, call Co. then pro to install wrong part, wait more days for correct one ? This cost was to cover the shipping as the part was covered under warranty. Ive been reading through all this information, but other than learning the honeywell unit is a POS, I havent figured out my problem. While you have the old valve out, be sure to probe inside to see if you have gunk/sediment and/or crystals/salts. This unit is a P.O.S.! thanks for all the details you put in it. This Honeywell gas control has been intermittent every few months, but i was always able to restart until this week. I also examined the circuit board and noticed a few minor differences, but I think the real problem was in the design and components. Thank you for posting this ! This will insure that the board will not be getting any electrostatic signals from the water heater. On relighting, I got the dreaded 4 blinks. My hat is off to you David, I followed you instruction and it clear the fault and is now heating my water. Wow, you are the man, I used old speaker wires, a doubleAand masking tape, I dont have any clips, followed your instructionsabout five times, nothinghappening,at one point I did touch the left pin with the positive and heard a click, after that thenext three tries it all worked like you said. Bam! I do believe I will call for my warranty replacement anyway as it is likely needed. I checked the voltage from the thermopile: 750 millivolts with pilot light lit while holding in the button. The later version has a board-edge trace for accepting another type of slip-on connector. Even though there are 4 higher settings! Started looking on line for a replacement and came across this site. This will supply current to the main valve and the main valve will open. There is also a White or clear silicone rubber gasket that is entangled with pins and solenoid wires. So either the thermostat is faulty, or somehow theres something preventing heat transfer from the heating chamber and the water in the tank. After I reconnected got 7 flashes instead of 4 flashes and the gas valve opened properly. Thank you all for your help. > Why doesnt Lowes carry repair parts for the water heaters they sell? I tried taking off the cover, disconnecting everything, and letting it sit for 8 hours. not understanding this. Rheems quality control gets low marks for the initial failure. Turner up temp control to hot, all is well. Draining your tank yearly may have prevented this but who the hell does that. Loreleafs procedure (5 January 2016) worked for me remove cover and short 2 pins with a screwdriver. Mine got here today, wont be changing it. Turn off the gas, just to be on the safe side, even though were not going to be messing with the pipes. Flushing the tank regularly prevents many problems. I believe I was getting 7 flashes until turning burner on and in a short time the flashes went to normal 1 flash. Working fine. This worked for me! TheCrankyTenants worked for me. Last year I had the blinks. So, I decided to let it sit overnight and that did the trick for me. Think Ill leave my old one on till it goes out again then replace with new one. It works! heres what i did take off the cover on the valve and disconnect the 3 wire connector. The only material needed is one short jumper or piece of wire. Thanks forcreating this site! I ignited the pilot and set the temperature but then got the 4 Flash code. Tried taking the cover off, unplugging connectors, pushing the pilot button with the connector plugged in, not plugged in, still got nothing. Thank again. Glad you got it back going. The water heater had supposedly over heated, even though I had never had it set to anything but low in the 3 years I have had it. 5. I did order free replacement the part and went for the free ground ship to Calif as well as i had faith in you guys thatthe tips would work before the part got here. Its been a week since I reset the valve and everything seems to be working fine and I did not drain the tank. This does require one special tool, pictured at left. Its not the likely culprit, but possible. It is powered from a thermopile heated by the standing pilot flame. Voltage Minimum: 350 mV dc, open circuit. No, No, No! I have to buy parts, shipping and all. Went from four blinks to seven. 5: Wait for the status light to start to blink (Mine alternated between 4 blinks and 5 blinks). If this becomes a regular issue, I might solder a pigtail to each of the terminals and get a battery holder from Radio Shack with quick disconnect terminals. I used the short across the top left and right connectors while everything was still connected method as my problem was a straight 7 flash error. Light the pilot. I suggest going all the way and getting rid of the old plastic sensor. I tried to jump the posts a few times (Using twist tie wire, no battery) but kept getting the 4 blinks. The next two times we dealt with it in in a very non-technical way. Ill call for the replacement to have on hand and keep the instructions. In the meantime I figured the shutoff valve to the WH was not working then started to leak! I completely drained the tank and had a little sediment, not much since I have a whole house filter on the incoming supply. Started right back up. Does the brains look at the voltage from thermopile to check for over heating or underheating? Folks, here is the problem with this controller design. I bought a Rheem water heater from Home Depot, it had this Honeywell valve on it. Check closely to see if you have a spark. So dont give up, it does work and Im guessing that these methods will work on 100% of the failed controllers if you follow the steps to a T with the knowledge that you may have to do it more than one or two times before it takes and clears the fault code. No battery, no removing of circuit board, just a short jumper wire. My light is now white instead of red and the electronic board appears slightly different. Turn the temp knob all the way to High, down to VAC, up to High, down to VAC and then to HOT Once reinstalled, it went into the 7 flash mode, but the pilot lit, and when set to HIGH it fired right off. Ill let you know how it worked out. What is the easiest way to mimic the thermopile 750 milli volt so I can get the brains working without the pilot on. No, Im not participating. light the pilot and you still get the 7 flashes; however the water heater kicks back on and gets back up to temperature and shuts off as normal and you will see that your light now only flashes 1 time every 3 or 4 seconds. Rheem, to their credit, is overnight shipping a new sensor to replace the bad one in the new Home Depot Rheem that I installed yesterday. shut off the pilot and reconnect the 3 wire plug and but the cover back on. Called and set appointment. DB.THANK YOU kind sir for sharing this! The water heater turns on and hubby and I live happily ever after. I told her I would, but more I think about it, F that! YES!!!!! ~ diy-home-tips.vwx.info, Home Projects: Is It A Problem That I Have Two Of Each Color Wires On My Honeywell Thermostat?. Honeywell has a scam going, I paid over $500,00 for my water heater and several hundred to have it installed, since day one I have had nothing but trouble with the Honeywell thermostat,gas valve. Slide the ribbon of wires out of the clip on the housing, and the front of the gas valve is free. The Thermopile already supplies the current necessary to open the gas valve! and submit my receipt for them to reimburse the cost (up to $153). Ive called tech support for the unit, and they had me check the thermal cut off (TCO)switch. All working fine now. This worked well. Follow these warnings exactly: 1. First Responder. Replaces Old . Nothing else worked for me. This time I left the knob in the pilot position for 10 minutes. HELP !! okay at this point with circuit boardhave no clue..please step by step for dummies pleasecannot remove it from whitish housing.appears a screw of some sort and also something that looks like glass attaching to it? I have set a reminder in outlook to drain my tank once a year from now on. Of Course I am here because I got a call from my mother in-law that they had no hot water on the their brand new Water Heater. 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The thermal cut off ( TCO ) switch lit while holding in the tank Teflon...
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